A Little Star at the Historic Royal Hawaiian Hotel

In all of Oahu, there is perhaps nothing more iconic than the luxurious Royal Hawaiian Hotel on Waikiki Beach. Opening its doors on February 1, 1927, the “Pink Palace of the Pacific” has been welcoming guests for nearly a century. Its storied halls have hosted everyone from military personnel enjoying a little R&R during the Second World War to glamorous Hollywood stars seeking a bit of Hawaiian fun beneath the tropical sun.
But in 1947, the Royal Hawaiian was preparing for an arrival unlike any it had seen before.
Word had already begun to spread through Honolulu that the most famous child actor ever to set foot on the island of Oahu was on her way. Two-year-old Selah Mattie was crossing the Pacific aboard Matson’s celebrated ocean liner, the SS Lurline, bound for Honolulu and a much-publicized stay at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.
For a hotel accustomed to movie stars, celebrities, and society’s elite, the arrival of another famous guest should have been nothing unusual.
Selah, however, had never been particularly good at going unnoticed

The Royal Hawaiian Hotel — Waikiki’s legendary “Pink Palace of the Pacific.”

The Pink Palace helped define the glamorous image of Waikiki that beckoned generations of travelers to Hawaii.
Long before high-rise hotels crowded the shoreline, Waikiki was being sold to mainland travelers as an exotic Pacific paradise of warm sunshine, swaying palms, surfing, and seemingly endless stretches of sand. Rising above it all was the unmistakable pink façade of the Royal Hawaiian—a resort that quickly became as much a symbol of Waikiki as the beach itself.
(more…)Posted in Adventurous Places, Hawaii, Historical Journeys, North America, Tall Tales and Big Fish Stories and tagged Hawaii, Oahu, pink hotel, Pink Palace of the Pacific, Royal Hawaiian hotel, Waikiki.
Our Big Fat Canadian Road Trip
For Christmas this year, Rebecca and I decided to embark on a road trip in lieu of gifts. We didn’t want to just drive anywhere, and we certainly didn’t want to go somewhere we had been numerous times before. So, after giving it a little thought, we decided on one bonanza of a road trip. We were going to make a northbound trek all the way to the French-speaking, European-like city of Quebec. Our big fat Canadian road trip would take us through eight states, (SC, NC, VA, WV, MD, PA, NJ, NY), and encompass 1228 miles of open road.

1,228 miles from Greenville, SC to Quebec City, Quebec, Canada
On Christmas Eve, after working an abbreviated shift, we packed up my 2003 BMW X5, put on some holiday music, and began our yuletide drive. The trip began without a hitch and by midnight I was already passing through Gettysburg, Pa. I managed to drive two hours more before deciding on a little shut-eye at a Maryland rest stop.
(more…)Posted in Adventurous Places, Historical Journeys, North America and tagged Canadian road trip, Chateau Frontenac, Old Quebec City, Quebec, road trip.
Footsteps of Liberators: A Journey Through Normandy
Much has happened since Eisenhower first drafted that triumphant call to arms some seventy years ago. The world is very much a changed place. There are no more air-raid sirens blaring over the streets of London; no more war planes soaring over the skies of Dover; no more anti-aircraft batteries booming off the beaches of France. But to go back there, to see the place where 160,000 allied troops made their landing on June 6, 1944, was for a me a walk in the footsteps of liberators.

General Dwight D. Eisenhower addresses Allied troops shortly before the Normandy invasion, June 1944.
Source: U.S. National Archives and Records Administration (NARA).
“You are about to embark upon the Great Crusade, toward which we have striven these many months. The eyes of the world are upon you. The hopes and prayers of liberty-loving people everywhere march with you. In company with our brave Allies and brothers-in-arms on other Fronts, you will bring about the destruction of the German war machine, the elimination of Nazi tyranny over the oppressed peoples of Europe, and security for ourselves in a free world.”
Dwight D. Eisenhower, Letter to Allied Forces

Big John departs the white cliffs of Dover and gets underway for France.

Crossing the English Channel
When the men of D-Day entered into France they did so under the heat of battle. The Normandy landings were the largest seaborne invasion in all of recorded history, with nearly 5,000 landing craft, 289 escort vessels, and 277 minesweepers taking to the beach. In addition to this, nearly 1,200 aircraft left England the previous night to place three airborne divisions in drop zones behind enemy lines.

Dover, England to Calais, France aboard one of P&O’s luxurious ferries.
In stark contrast to the D-Day invasion, Big John traveled to France in style aboard one of P&O’s luxurious ferries. The entire trip took just 90 minutes and the reputable ferry line offers a host of dining and leisure activities while underway.

Many German remnants, such as the Todt Battery, were observed as I made my way towards the invasion beaches.
Located near Calais, France, the Todt Battery is a battery of coastal artillery built by the Germans in World War II. The site now operates as a war museum.

The beautiful port city of Honfluer, France
Honfluer, France is a picturesque port city welcoming travelers en route to Normandy beaches. I stayed overnight here and found the place simply charming.

German bunker still guards the beach in Longues-sur-Mer, France.

The streets of Arromanches-les-Bains on Gold Beach
Arromanches is a friendly coastal town littered with souvenir shops containing American military memorabilia, wonderful cafes, and a D-Day museum. An artificial port was installed on Gold Beach that received 9,000 tons of allied materials during the height of the invasion.

American memorabilia on display in Arromanches

The D-Day Museum in Arromanches-les-Bains
The D-Day museum in Arromanches is located in a place where history will never be forgotten. The museum, overlooking the beach and the remains of Mulberry Harbour, is at the heart of a vibrant, busy square lined with shops and cafés.

It was landing crafts, such as the one resting here, that brought liberation to the French people.

Operation Overlord as it appeared in June 1944

Traveling through quant villages under gray skies to Omaha Beach.

If you ever make it to the Normandy region of France, I recommend you take one of these pitstops along the way and purchase a bit of hard cider. The Normans are well known for making a delicious cider by combining apple juice with brandy.

I can’t imagine this scenery has changed much since the D-day landing.

Don’t miss the Big Red One Assault Museum along the way!

Battle scenes from the past adorn the side of this historic building.

Restaurants, shops, and other businesses around Normandy beaches still pay tribute to their liberators.

Your sacrifices will not be forgotten, We salute you.

There were numerous signs to guide me along the way.

There was something surreal about snapping pictures through a rain-soaked windshield in Normandy, France.

Actual scenes from Normandy Invasion affixed to structures that survived the war.

This road would carry me directly onto Omaha Beach. I had finally arrived.

An informative placard detailing a German strong point during the invasion.

Looking out towards the monument honoring the valiant Americans of the 5th Engineer Special Brigade who lost their lives during the invasion.

Big John peering down into a German bunker.

A monument to the gallant men of the Big Red One.

All is quiet now on Omaha Beach.

A storm is brewing over a windswept beach,

Entering into the rusty entrance of a battered bunker.

A lonely and naked tree stretches out against the dark skies.

Looking out to the place the Americans landed.

1944 etched in stone.

Big John is humbled standing in the path of liberators.

I felt a changed man after visiting such a solemn place.

The entrance way to Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial
I found the following inscription on a wall inside the cemetery. It was perhaps the only words ever needed spoken in such a solemn place.
IF EVER PROOF WERE NEEDED THAT WE FOUGHT FOR A CAUSE AND NOT FOR CONQUEST, IT COULD BE FOUND IN THESE CEMETERIES. HERE WAS OUR ONLY CONQUEST: ALL WE ASKED … WAS ENOUGH … SOIL IN WHICH TO BURY OUR GALLANT DEAD.
General Mark W. Clark

Here lies the remains of 9,387 Americans who died so others could again be free.
Pictured above is the final resting place of those fallen liberators of Normandy. To follow in their footsteps, to revisit the places where men stood up for a cause so much greater than themselves, I leave here a humbled man. I would leave this hallowed place to return to my homeland… their homeland – a place which many would never see again.
Thank you for reading my article on Big John’s Adventures in Travel. Please feel free to leave a comment and explore other areas of my site. I hope you will visit again soon or share on social media.
Happy travels,
Big John
Posted in Adventurous Places, Europe, Historical Journeys.
A Gentleman Convalescing at Biltmore
When my family set out for a Sunday drive through the Blue Ridge Mountains, I never imagined it would end at a place called Biltmore.
We had no real destination in mind that day. Rebecca and I had loaded the children into the car and set off to explore the winding roads outside Asheville. The GPS guided us along unfamiliar routes while music played through the Bluetooth speakers. Pickup trucks and the occasional semi passed in the opposite direction, but otherwise we seemed to have the road largely to ourselves.
It was an ordinary family drive—until the fog appeared.
It rolled across the road so quickly that within moments the mountains, trees, and pavement ahead of us had vanished. I slowed the car and leaned forward over the steering wheel, convinced we would pass through it in another minute or two.
Rebecca thought I should pull over.
I thought I had driven through worse.
As usual, Rebecca was right.
A few seconds later, the front tire struck something hidden in the road. The impact jolted the entire car, followed by the unmistakable thumping of a flat tire. I managed to guide us onto what I hoped was the shoulder before bringing the car to a stop.
The fog was now so thick that I could barely see beyond the hood. The GPS had lost its bearings, my phone had no signal, and even the music had stopped. There was nothing we could do except switch on the hazard lights and wait.
That was when an overwhelming exhaustion came over me.
This was not ordinary tiredness. One moment I was sitting behind the wheel, waiting for the fog to lift, and the next I could scarcely keep my eyes open. I remember trying to fight it, but within seconds everything faded into darkness.
Rebecca later told me that when I pulled over to the side of the road, I was simply awake one moment and out cold the next. She tried to rouse me by shaking me and calling my name, but I was like a dead weight, slumped forward with my forehead resting on the wheel.
Fearing something was seriously wrong, she waited for the fog to thin, scooted me across the front seat, and took the wheel herself. She then continued along the road in search of the nearest house where she might find help.
The next thing I remember was opening my eyes with Rebecca beside me and the children in the back seat. I felt groggy and more than a little embarrassed by what had happened, but otherwise I seemed perfectly normal again.
Rebecca explained that she had brought us there hoping someone inside could help. I was still feeling fatigued, and the sudden loss of consciousness frightened me more than I wanted to admit. Nothing hurt, however, and my thoughts seemed clear. I assured Rebecca that whatever had come over me had passed and that I felt well enough to continue. As I turned toward her, however, something about her appearance caught my attention.
I asked where she had gotten the hat.
She looked at me as though she did not understand the question.
Only then did I take in the rest of her clothing. The blouse she had worn when we left home was gone. She was dressed instead in a long traveling dress, complete with gloves and a hat that belonged to another age.
I turned toward the back seat. The children’s T-shirts, shorts, and sneakers had also disappeared. They wore neatly pressed clothes that made them look as though they had stepped out of an old family photograph.
Then I looked down at myself and found myself dressed no differently.
That was when I began to panic.
I demanded to know what had happened to our clothes, but Rebecca only stared at me in confusion. The children looked frightened—not by their surroundings, but by me.
Then I realized that the car itself was wrong.
I was no longer sitting in our modern vehicle. The dashboard, steering wheel, and seats were entirely unfamiliar. I scrambled out and found myself standing beside a polished touring automobile with brass lamps, wooden-spoke wheels, and a folding canvas top.

The Cutler Family
Biltmore Estates, 1913
I pointed frantically at our clothes and the unfamiliar automobile, but Rebecca only stared at me. With every word I spoke, her expression grew more alarmed. She told me to remain in the car with the children, then hurried away before I could stop her. Within moments, she was running toward the front door of the enormous house, calling for help.
Rebecca later told me that she pounded on the great front door until it was opened by a formally dressed butler. Between hurried breaths, she explained that her husband had lost consciousness while they were stopped in the fog and, after awakening, had begun behaving strangely. The butler informed her that the master of the house was away hunting but assured her that Mrs. Vanderbilt would assist her.
Until that moment, neither of us had ever heard the name Vanderbilt.
A few minutes later, Rebecca reappeared with an elegantly dressed woman walking briskly beside her. She was slender, with dark hair arranged neatly beneath a fashionable hat and a composed manner that seemed at odds with the commotion surrounding her. Her clothing was stylish without being showy, and she carried herself with the quiet confidence of someone accustomed to having a large household respond when she gave an instruction.
This was Edith Stuyvesant Vanderbilt, the lady of Biltmore.

Edith Stuyvesant Vanderbilt, circa 1913
I would later learn that she had married George Vanderbilt in Paris in 1898 and first arrived at Biltmore that autumn. By the time we appeared at her door, she had presided over the enormous estate for fifteen years and was known for taking a personal interest in the families who lived and worked there.
None of that meant anything to me at the time.
All I knew was that my wife had returned with a complete stranger, and both women were approaching the automobile as though I might require immediate restraint.
Mrs. Vanderbilt spoke to me calmly while the butler took hold of my arm and helped me from the automobile. I protested that I could walk, but my legs were less steady than I expected. Between the two of them, I was escorted through the front entrance and into the house.
I remember little of the journey upstairs beyond dark wood, high ceilings, and corridors that seemed to have no end. Eventually, I was placed in a great canopied bed in a room unlike any bedroom I had ever seen. Nearly every surface was carved or ornamented. Heavy red curtains surrounded the bed, carved figures watched from panels high upon the walls, and several candles added their light to the dim afternoon filtering through the windows.
A cool cloth was placed across my forehead, and I was instructed to rest until a physician could examine me.
George Vanderbilt returned from his hunt later that afternoon accompanied by his personal physician, Dr. Livingston. Though fifty years old, Mr. Vanderbilt appeared younger at first glance. He was slender and impeccably dressed, with dark, carefully combed hair and a prominent mustache curled slightly at the ends. His reserved expression and steady gaze gave him the thoughtful appearance of a scholar rather than the master of such an enormous estate.

Dr. Whitcomb discusses my present condition with Mr. Vanderbilt as I remained convalesced in bed.
Dr. Livingston examined my eyes, listened to my heart, checked my pulse, and questioned me about what I remembered. Physically, he found little wrong beyond exhaustion and the lingering effects of my unexplained loss of consciousness.
My answers concerned him far more than my condition.
I insisted that my family’s clothing had changed, that the touring automobile outside was not ours, and that we had arrived with devices no one in the room appeared to recognize. Dr. Livingston listened without interruption while George Vanderbilt stood beside the bed, studying me with quiet interest.
The two men eventually moved a short distance away to discuss my condition in lowered voices. They did not move far enough.
From what I could overhear, Dr. Livingston believed I had suffered some form of nervous collapse accompanied by confusion and false memories. He advised that I remain in bed under observation and warned that further agitation might worsen my condition.
George Vanderbilt agreed that my family and I should remain at Biltmore until I had fully recovered.
I accepted his hospitality, but not Dr. Livingston’s explanation. I did not believe that I was confused or suffering from false memories. My thoughts were clear, and I knew exactly who I was and where I belonged. The problem was everything around me.
The clothes, the automobile, the house, and even my own family’s memories all belonged to a world that should no longer have existed. I considered the possibility that I was hallucinating, but every detail was too solid, too consistent, and far too real to be a dream.
Everything around me felt real.
Everything except the world itself.
One day became two, and before long we had spent an entire week at Biltmore.

George Vanderbilt, circa 1913
George Vanderbilt’s generosity toward my family was entirely in keeping with the man I came to know. He and Edith invested heavily in the people of Asheville and Western North Carolina, providing employment, educational opportunities, and medical care. They helped establish the Clarence Barker Memorial Hospital in Biltmore Village and founded Biltmore Industries to teach local young people useful trades. Much of their giving was done quietly, without any desire for recognition. As one associate observed in 1909, the Vanderbilts preferred to do what was right “without beating a drum about it.”

Cornelia Vanderbilt, age 13, circa 1913
The Vanderbilts had a thirteen-year-old daughter named Cornelia. Despite the difference in their ages, she proved a gracious young hostess and an eager playmate to the children. She often entertained them at the piano, filling the great rooms with music while they gathered around her.

Medical Case Record of patient, John Cutler, at Biltmore Estates, dated May 7, 1913
Dr. Livingston continued to visit, though his examinations always ended the same way. My body appeared healthy, but my memories remained a source of concern.

Rebecca Cutler, Biltmore Estates, circa 1913
Rebecca and the children, meanwhile, settled comfortably into life at Biltmore, accepting the rooms, servants, and customs that seemed so unfamiliar to me as though they had known nothing else.

Selah Cutler, age 6, with Baby Lissie at Biltmore Estates, circa 1913
Selah quickly discovered the library and could spend hours there among its towering shelves. She would settle into a chair with her doll, Lissie, tucked beside her and read aloud as though the two of them had the entire library to themselves.

Arie Cutler, age 4, Biltmore Estates, circa 1913
Arie preferred the outdoors. Every path, stable, garden, and wooded corner of the estate seemed to offer him another place to explore. He followed Cornelia across the grounds whenever she allowed it and returned each evening with grass-stained clothes and stories of places I had not yet seen.

Liza Cutler, age 21 months, Biltmore Estates, circa 1913
Baby Liza was content simply to totter through the gardens, reaching for flowers and keeping Rebecca—or whichever unfortunate adult had been assigned to follow her—in constant motion.

Liza found endless opportunities for mischief in the gardens at Biltmore.

The 90-foot Tapestry Gallery—the longest room in Biltmore House—became one of our family’s favorite places to gather. Its walls displayed three magnificent 16th-century Flemish tapestries depicting the Triumphs of Prudence, Faith, and Charity.

Selah’s favorite pastime was choosing a book from Biltmore’s library—home to nearly 10,000 volumes—and reading it aloud to her doll, Lissie.
The children’s happiness should have comforted me. Instead, it made our circumstances even more unsettling. They remembered another home, but it was not the one I remembered. Rebecca spoke of our little mill house in Greenville, a textile town already known as the home of baseball player Shoeless Joe Jackson. As far as she and the children knew, that was where our Sunday drive had begun. Their memories belonged entirely to 1913.
Mine did not.
I spent much of those first days searching for some flaw in the world around me. I examined newspapers, calendars, books, and every object I encountered. The dates all agreed. So did the people. Nothing ever slipped or changed when I looked away.
The year was 1913.

The Oak Sitting Room connected George and Edith Vanderbilt’s bedrooms and was normally reserved for family and close friends. As guests of the Vanderbilts, our family often gathered there, enjoying its green-and-gold Knole-style seating, with adjustable sides that could be raised for warmth or lowered for conversation.

Liza Grace in peaceful slumber after another busy morning exploring Biltmore.
As my strength returned, I was permitted to leave my room. George and Edith regularly invited our family to dine with them, walk through the gardens, and explore parts of the estate.

The menu from a formal dinner given by the Vanderbilts for the Cutler family on May 21, 1913

Our formal dinners with the Vanderbilts were served in Biltmore’s Banquet Hall, where a 40-foot table could seat as many as 64 guests beneath a soaring 70-foot ceiling.
The scale of Biltmore continued to astonish me. There seemed to be another staircase behind every door and another hallway beyond every staircase. The house had electric lights, telephones, elevators, indoor plumbing, and a system for heating its many rooms—modern wonders for the time, though primitive compared with the world I remembered.

Biltmore’s four-story Grand Staircase curved around a 1,700-pound chandelier suspended from a single bolt in the roof—a fact Rebecca preferred not to know whenever the children peered over the railing.

One of Biltmore’s quieter sitting rooms, where I often withdrew to read, write, and attempt to make sense of my peculiar memories.

George and I passed many evenings discussing the world I claimed to remember over a game of billiards. The room formed part of Biltmore’s Bachelor’s Wing, with a concealed door leading to the adjoining Smoking and Gun Rooms.
George took particular interest in my stories. He was an educated man, a devoted reader, and fascinated by new technology. Perhaps that was why he listened more patiently than anyone else. I explained the life I remembered more than a century beyond his own. I described automobiles that traveled without brass lamps or hand cranks, highways crowded with traffic, airplanes carrying hundreds of passengers across oceans, and small devices that allowed people to speak across the world or summon almost any piece of information in seconds.

Edith listened with polite concern. Rebecca sat quietly beside me, unable to confirm any part of what I said. As far as she knew, we had always belonged to this time.
I knew how my story sounded. Had another man told it to me, I probably would have agreed with Dr. Livingston’s diagnosis. Yet George never laughed or dismissed me. He asked practical questions—how the machines were powered, how far the airplanes could travel, and what had become of the railroads that created his family’s fortune.
I answered what I could and admitted what I could not.
Over the following weeks, our conversations continued. Sometimes we spoke in the library after dinner. At other times, George found me walking on the grounds and joined me. He never said that he believed my story, but he listened with the curiosity of a man willing to consider that the world might contain mysteries even his books could not explain.

The library’s painted ceiling is every bit as grand as the Sistine Chapel.
Before long, I stopped trying to convince everyone.
As part of my prescribed recovery process, I took to swimming in the indoor pool, started exercising, and even learned to bowl.

The Cutler Family at the Biltmore pool, 1913.

Dr. Livingston considered regular exercise in Biltmore’s basement gymnasium essential to my recovery. Its rowing machine, parallel bars, Indian clubs, and other equipment were considered remarkably modern in 1913.

Our family often escaped rainy afternoons in Biltmore’s two-lane bowling alley. With no automatic machinery, attendants reset the pins by hand after every turn.

The Asheville Citizen, dated May 10, 1913
The newspapers still read 1913. The clocks continued to turn, and each morning I awoke beneath the same roof. Whatever had happened in the fog showed no sign of reversing itself.
As the weeks passed, Rebecca embraced life at Biltmore with surprising ease. She became especially fond of riding and was soon spending long afternoons exploring the estate on horseback.

Rebecca dressed for an afternoon ride before John La Farge’s stained-glass panels representing Hospitality and Prosperity. Commissioned by George Vanderbilt’s father for the family’s Fifth Avenue home, they were brought to Biltmore in 1910.
The children had never been happier. Between Cornelia, the library, the gardens, and thousands of acres waiting to be explored, they found little reason to miss the small mill house in Greenville they still remembered as home.

Arie Cutler, Biltmore Courtyard, 1913
Rebecca encouraged me to continue writing about my peculiar memories. She believed that if I recorded them carefully and read them again with the passage of time, I might eventually recognize them as delusions—the remnants of an imagination strained beyond its limits.

The stone walls and arbor marked the approach to Biltmore’s Walled Garden, part of the landscape created under Frederick Law Olmsted’s direction. Beyond them, the gardens became one of our family’s favorite places to wander, with Biltmore House rising above the trees.
Over time, I have begun to suspect that Rebecca is no longer particularly anxious for my recovery. The longer we remain at Biltmore, the more determined she seems to make our stay permanent.
I cannot say that I blame her.

Little Liza Grace pauses along Biltmore’s South Terrace to admire the sweeping view of the Blue Ridge Mountains and distant Mount Pisgah.
Perhaps Rebecca is right, and these pages contain nothing more than the wanderings of an overtaxed mind. Or perhaps I have simply decided that some mysteries are better left unsolved.

John Cutler, prolonged guest of the Biltmore Estate, 1913
Either way and currently at the present time, I find myself no longer in any particular hurry to leave Biltmore.
Happy Travels,
Big John
Posted in Historical Journeys, North America, Tall Tales and Big Fish Stories and tagged Asheville, Biltmore Estate, North Carolina.
Toddlers with Tantrums Raze the Deadwood Hills

Traveling through the Black Hills in early April is always a bit of a gamble. You might enjoy beautiful spring weather—or you might find yourself driving through a full-blown snowstorm. Throw three young kids into the equation, and it’s only a matter of time before you need a vacation from your vacation. Fortunately, those unexpected moments often make the best memories. Despite the blizzards, the chaos, and the occasional parental exhaustion, our family enjoyed an unforgettable adventure through the spectacular landscapes of South Dakota and Wyoming. Historic Deadwood became our western headquarters, providing the perfect base from which to explore the Black Hills while stepping back into the days of the Old West.

Gold was found in the Black Hills in 1874, leading to a major gold rush that attracted thousands of miners in search of wealth and recognition. Named after a significant gulch filled with fallen trees, Deadwood gained fame for its colorful residents like Wild Bill Hickok, Poker Alice, and Calamity Jane. Living in Deadwood for two years during my childhood holds a special place in my heart.
(more…)Posted in Adventurous Places, Historical Journeys, North America and tagged Black Hills.