The Hike Up Koko Head Crater

Out of all the incredible hikes I have done during my time on Oahu, Koko Head remains my absolute favorite. Located on the southeastern side of the island near Maunalua Bay, the hike is relatively short in distance, but don’t let that fool you. The climb follows more than 1,000 old railway ties straight up the side of Koko Crater, creating a steep ascent that will definitely test your endurance.

But what makes Koko Head especially fascinating—beyond the spectacular views—is the history beneath your feet. During World War II, the U.S. military constructed facilities at the summit and built an inclined railway to haul personnel, equipment, and supplies up the mountainside. After the U.S. Air Force became a separate military service in 1947, the installation became known as Koko Crater Air Force Station.

Koko Crater Air Force Station atop Koko Head, with its AN/CPS-1 radar installation and railway system. Historical image from HANG 25, History of the Hawaii Air National Guard, 4 November 1946–3 November 1971, Col. Walter F. Judd, 1971.


Long before hikers began climbing the old railway ties for the view, this was a working military installation. The steep railway served a practical purpose, hauling personnel, equipment, and supplies to facilities high above southeastern Oahu. At the summit, radar equipment such as the AN/CPS-1 helped transform Koko Head into an important early-warning and surveillance site. Today, much of that infrastructure has disappeared, but the railway remains—turning a piece of Hawaii’s military history into one of the island’s most memorable hikes.

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A Little Star at the Historic Royal Hawaiian Hotel

In all of Oahu, there is perhaps nothing more iconic than the luxurious Royal Hawaiian Hotel on Waikiki Beach. Opening its doors on February 1, 1927, the “Pink Palace of the Pacific” has been welcoming guests for nearly a century. Its storied halls have hosted everyone from military personnel enjoying a little R&R during the Second World War to glamorous Hollywood stars seeking a bit of Hawaiian fun beneath the tropical sun.

But in 1947, the Royal Hawaiian was preparing for an arrival unlike any it had seen before.

Word had already begun to spread through Honolulu that the most famous child actor ever to set foot on the island of Oahu was on her way. Two-year-old Selah Mattie was crossing the Pacific aboard Matson’s celebrated ocean liner, the SS Lurline, bound for Honolulu and a much-publicized stay at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.

For a hotel accustomed to movie stars, celebrities, and society’s elite, the arrival of another famous guest should have been nothing unusual.

Selah, however, had never been particularly good at going unnoticed

The Royal Hawaiian Hotel — Waikiki’s legendary “Pink Palace of the Pacific.”


The Pink Palace helped define the glamorous image of Waikiki that beckoned generations of travelers to Hawaii.


Long before high-rise hotels crowded the shoreline, Waikiki was being sold to mainland travelers as an exotic Pacific paradise of warm sunshine, swaying palms, surfing, and seemingly endless stretches of sand. Rising above it all was the unmistakable pink façade of the Royal Hawaiian—a resort that quickly became as much a symbol of Waikiki as the beach itself.

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The Paumalu Bunker Hiking Trail on Oahu’s North Shore

For the most part, only locals with intimate knowledge of the North Shore are familiar with the Paumalu Bunker that overlooks the Banzai pipeline on Sunset Beach. However, most mainlanders can easily describe the legendary conditions out on the Banzai Pipeline of Sunset Beach. The Banzai Pipeline is a famous surf reef break off of Ehukai Beach Park in Pupukea. The pipeline hosts some off the most gnarly surfing competitions in all of North America. With waves reaching as high as 20 feet in the winter months, it is no wonder that surfers and non-surfers alike flock to this sandy shore to see surfing professionals risk life and limb for the glory of the sport.

Since I am by no means a serious surfer, and I did not wish to go to my watery grave on any Pacific Island, I chose to participate in a much-lesser known excursion in the area involving dry land – the Paumalu Bunker Hiking Trail.

The island of Oahu is littered with numerous bunkers and pillboxes which defended her coastlines during WWII. Most of these defensive positions, if not all, have become popular hiking spots on the island.

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Outrigger Canoe Paddling in Pearl Harbor

Outrigger canoeing has been a part of Hawaii’s history and culture since ancient times; and in my opinion, there is truly no better way to experience Hawaii than from the seat of one of these canoes.  I had the privilege of getting my oars wet for the first time when I, along with a team of my coworkers, recently met at Rainbow Bay Marina in Honolulu. The Rainbow Bay Marina is a Morale, Welfare, and Recreation (MWR) facility for military members and their families stationed on the island of Oahu. The marina, located just outside the Arizona Memorial on Pearl Harbor, offers a variety of boats and other activities for fun times on the water.

These canoes weigh roughly 900 pounds each!

One of the most challenging things about outrigger canoes is just getting the crafts launched into the water. We were lucky that we had a pretty large paddling crew to all lend a hand. These canoes weigh roughly 900 pounds each! (more…)


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Remembering Pearl Harbor

On Sunday morning, December 7, 1941, the Imperial Japanese Navy Air Service launched a surprise, preemptive strike on the US. Pacific Fleet stationed at Pearl Harbor Hawaii. All around the island of Oahu, other US military bases and strategic locations of defense were simutaneously attacked by Japanese aircraft.  The attack began at 0748 hrs., when the first of 353 Imperial Japanese aircraft , (consisting of two waves of fighters, dive bombers, and torpedo planes), broke through the clouds and began wreaking havoc on their unsuspecting targets below.

A Japanese bomber soars up and over battleship row after releasing its payload.

In the aftermath of the Sunday morning attack, all 8 US Navy battleship were damaged with 4 sunk. The Japanese also sank 3 destroyers, 3 cruisers, 1 minelayer, and an anti-aircraft training ship. 188 US aircraft had also been destroyed in the attack; 2,403 Americans were killed, and another 1,178 others were wounded. By attacking the US Pacific fleet at Pearl Harbor, the Japanese had hoped to prevent the United States from interfering with its planned military campaigns in Southeast Asia and elsewhere. One day after the devastating attack on Pearl Harbor, the United States declared war on the Empire of Japan. (more…)


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